Ice cream making11/8/2023 ![]() Using a fast and accurate instant-read thermometer like Thermapen ONE ensures that you hit the temperature mark right on the head. Enter Thermapen ® ONE and our first critical temperature!Īccording to Rose Levy Beranbaum, the egg mixture needs to be cooked to between 170☏ and 180☏ (77☌ and 82☌). 4 But putting egg yolks in a pan and cooking them with milk and/or cream is a recipe for weird chocolate scrambled eggs-not ice cream-if you overcook it. In fact, most of the best ice cream is made with eggs and is, thus, technically frozen custard. ![]() The proteins and emulsifiers in egg yolk can help keep ice crystals small and the texture smooth even at relatively low milk-fat and high water levels A mix that contains yolks must be cooked to disperse the proteins and emulsifiers (and kill any bacteria in the raw yolks), and the resulting thickened, custard-like mix makes an ice cream with a characteristic cooked, eggy flavor. The standard name brands have a higher percentage of other milk solids than do the premium brands, which means they have more milk than cream.Īnother ingredient that will deliver smoother, richer ice cream is egg yolks. The super-premium brands of ice cream that you know and love from the store have about 16–20% milk fat, as opposed to only 12–14% for standard name brands. To get rich ice cream, you need enough fat, enough milk protein, and enough sugar to keep the water in the ice cream from freezing solid. This fluid coats each of the many millions of ice crystals, and sticks them together-but not too strongly. The result is a very thick fluid that’s about equal portions of liquid water, milk fat, milk proteins, and sugar. Thanks to all the dissolved sugar, about a fifth of the water in the mix remains unfrozen even at 0☏/-18☌. The concentrated cream is what is left of the mix when the ice crystals form. But they account for only a fraction of its volume. And their size determines whether it is fine and smooth or coarse and grainy. ![]() The ice crystals form from water molecules as the mix freezes, and give ice cream its solidity they’re its backbone. Harold McGee talks about ice cream texture and how it is a combination of ice crystals, concentrated cream, and air: This is accomplished mostly with our ingredients. ![]() We’ll talk later about how to get small crystals, but first, let’s look at how we can keep those crystals from interacting with each other. Smooth, creamy ice cream is the result of having very small ice crystals that are kept apart. If we want a smooth, creamy ice cream-as opposed to a coarse, icy one-we need to take care with the ingredients and the temperatures. Ice cream: textures, ingredients, and temperatures Let’s take a look at how that works! And since we’re after the best ice cream, we’ll use a recipe from Rose Levy Beranbaum’s mouth-watering book Rose’s Ice Cream Bliss. Of course, along with practice, we could use temperatures to help us make the best possible ice cream. But maybe if we all practiced more, our ice cream 3 would be better. It makes sense we’ve all had homemade ice cream that was subpar-either runny or icy. ![]() I think part of the reason we don’t make it at home as much is that it’s a little intimidating. Yes, ice cream for the Fourth is amazing and right and proper, but why not for the fifth of July? The 13th? August first? Thanksgiving? I see no reason why this should be the case. Much like the Thanksgiving turkey, homemade ice cream is often made only once per year by many people, and that on the Fourth of July. Unfortunately, it is a treat that is far too rare. Fresh-churned ice cream-strawberry, vanilla, peach, chocolate, or anything else-is a delicious and celebratory treat. And if you want to up the ante even more on the summertime-y-ness, make that homemade ice cream. If there is one dessert that says “summer,” that dessert is (obviously) ice cream. ![]()
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